Starting A Collection

How To Start Collecting Vintage Watches

Starting a vintage watch collection is an exciting pursuit, but it can feel overwhelming with so many options, details, and hidden pitfalls. Whether you're captivated by the charm of old-world craftsmanship, the thrill of finding a rare piece, or the potential of long-term investment, knowing how to begin will help you build a collection you’ll truly appreciate.

What Draws You to Vintage Watches?

Rather than diving in headfirst, it helps to step back and think about what attracts you to vintage watches. Some collectors seek historical significance, while others focus on aesthetics or mechanical ingenuity. Do you want a rugged tool watch, an elegant dress watch, or something tied to motorsport or aviation history? Identifying what excites you will help shape your collection.

Setting a Budget

Prices for vintage watches vary widely, from affordable yet collectible Seikos to high-end Patek Philippes. Many first-time collectors believe they need to spend a fortune, but some of the best finds come in the sub-£2,000 range. Understanding what you can realistically afford while still acquiring quality pieces will help you make confident choices.

Understanding Watch Movements and Condition

Once you have an idea of what you want, it’s time to learn the basics.

• Manual-wind vs. Automatic vs. Quartz – Knowing the differences helps in choosing the right watch for your lifestyle.

• Originality Matters – While some collectors prioritise originality, others may prefer a fully restored watch for better wearability. Consider what matters most to you when making a purchase..

• Patina vs. Damage – Some ageing adds character, but excessive wear can be a red flag.

Condition is everything in the vintage world, and learning what to look for will save you from costly mistakes.

Finding Trusted Sellers

The vintage market is filled with watches that have been altered, poorly serviced, or outright faked. To avoid disappointment, consider:

✅ Reputable dealers – Established vintage watch dealers often provide authenticity guarantees.
✅ Auction houses – Trusted names like Sotheby’s and Phillips ensure legitimacy.
✅ Watch communities & forums – Engaging with enthusiasts on platforms like Watchuseek or Omega Forums can provide great insights.
✅ Private sellers with a track record – Some collectors and independent sellers are highly reputable.

Choosing Your First Vintage Watch

For beginners, it’s best to start with something timeless and reliable. Some great entry points include:

• Omega Seamaster – A durable and classic dive watch with vintage appeal.

• Seiko 6139 Chronograph – Affordable, historically significant, and fun to wear.

• Tissot Visodate – A budget-friendly dress watch with a classic aesthetic.

• Universal Genève Polerouter – A stylish, historically rich piece designed by Gérald Genta.

These models have a proven track record in the collector’s market, making them excellent choices to start with.

Maintenance and Servicing

Unlike modern watches, vintage pieces require regular servicing to keep them running well.

• Some brands have expensive servicing costs, so factor this into your budget.

• A good independent watchmaker can be invaluable for repairs and restorations.

• Knowing when to service and what to avoid (like over-polishing) will help maintain your watch’s integrity and value.

Engage with the Watch Community

One of the best ways to grow as a collector is by interacting with others.

• Join online discussions and forums to exchange knowledge.

• Attend watch fairs and meetups to connect with experts.

• Read up on watch history, movements, and trends to sharpen your skills.

The more you learn, the more confident you'll be in making smart purchases. Vintage watch collecting is a journey, and the best collections are built over time with patience and passion.

Final Thoughts

Starting a vintage watch collection should be enjoyable, not overwhelming. Take your time, research thoroughly, and focus on watches that truly appeal to you. Whether you're after investment-grade timepieces or everyday vintage charm, a well-planned collection will bring you years of satisfaction.

What’s the first vintage watch that caught your eye? Let us know in the comments!